Bassano del Grappa

The Venetian hinterland, its towns and their ramparts

I - Bassano del Grappa

Add your photos

Useful information | Make a comment (0)

| Near by

Samuel Cogliati - 2008-07-09

From the 15th century, Venice turned its attention landwards and for a long time dominated its hinterland, which supplied it with foodstuffs.

Before being subject to the Republic of the Serenissima, the centre of Venetia had been a border region: the Ezzelini and Scaligeri families were against it and the towns of Vicenza, Treviso and Padua were rivals. For their defence, these sovereign districts built castles that became veritable fortified towns surrounded by ramparts. Many of these bastions are still virtually intact today.

The hilltop citadels

The towns of Bassano, Marostica, Castelfranco and Cittadella, once ruled over by various noblemen, are similar in appearance.

Bassano del Grappa is the Italian capital of the Alpini (Alpine hunters). The famous wooden bridge, erected in 1571 over the Brenta river and rebuilt after the Second World War, is its symbol. Here, even during the hot Italian summers, a breeze still blows down the Brenta valley, cooling down the promenades of the Bassanesi. At sundown, make the most of the Sturm Palace belvedere or the right bank of the river, or have an aperitif at the Taverna al Ponte, with its narrow wooden balcony. The basement of this establishment houses the Museo degli Alpini, a moving little museum devoted to the First World War and to the life of these mountain heroes.

From the bridge, you will have a splendid view of the town centre, castle of the Ezzelinis and its ramparts. Then head into the old town: the alleys climb up to the oldest part. Access to the circuit around the ramparts is regulated according to the seasons.

The centre of Bassano consists of a pleasant labyrinth of sloping alleys and two main squares: Piazza Libertà and Piazza Garibaldi. On the latter stands the San Francesco church, with its charming mediaeval cloisters, and the Museo Civico (Municipal Museum), which houses numerous frescoes by Jacopo Da Ponte, one of the greatest Venetian painters of the 16th century.

A border once separated Bassano del Grappa from Marostica,located about six miles to the west. Legend has it that they used to be connected by an underground tunnel.

It takes just twenty minutes to reach this small town. The road winds at the bottom of the verdant hills of the fascia pedemontana (strip of land skirting the bottom of the mountain), covered with olive trees, cypresses, conifers, fruit trees and a few vineyards.

The arrival at Marostica is striking. This small mediaeval town has kept its ramparts, which surround the urban centre and follow the very steep slopes.

Two castles defended the citizens: one situated lower down, between the two gates of the main access, the other built a good hundred metres above the town. The two fortresses are connected by a footpath.

The main square of the old town, Piazza Castello, is the stage for a show repeated each month of September in even-numbered years – the Chess Game, which unfolds on a giant chessboard with live figures (this year it will take place from 12th to 14th September). The performance evokes the challenge by Taddeo Parisio, a podesta who decided to give his daughter’s hand in marriage to the winner of the game.

On this same square is one of the most fabulous delis in Italy, the Casa del Parmigiano, founded by the Gastaldello family in 1969. This establishment ripens some cheeses itself. Here you will find a succulent selection of the best Italian, French and British dairy specialities. The choice of salted meats and charcuteries is just as extraordinary.

The area surrounding Marostica is good for walks and hikes. You can do a one-day walk inside and outside the ramparts as far as the San Sebastiano monastery, or take the Percorso Colceresa – a 7.5mile-long trail that skirts the side and peak of the first hills between Pianezze and Mason Vicentino (recently renovated) – on foot, horseback or by mountain bike.

Recommended establishments in Bassano and Marostica

For an aperitif or a quick bite to eat in Bassano, plump for the Caffè Italia, an elegant wine bar at the upper entrance to the old town (Delle Grazie gate). On the terrace or at the bar, Italy’s best bottles are offered by the glass, accompanied by some good local products. The panoramic view of the castle and valley is very attractive.

You can sample a refined (sometimes daring) cuisine at Ca’ Sette, a hotel restaurant located just over a mile from the town centre. In summer you can dine outdoors, facing the park. The chef Alex Lorenzon and his second in command, Riccardo Basso, use regional produce in a more international style.

The Trattoria Da Doro in Solagna (4.5 miles) is an apparently simple restaurant, in typical inn style. The experience and imagination of Giovanni Scapin are entirely dedicated to a rich but easily digestible cuisine that is local yet modern. A real treat, with a nice wine list.

Not to be missed, the Dolce Bassano cake shop, run by Mario Sarri since 1992, heir to the tradition of the master Fabris (the meringue maestro), also guardian of a leaven kept for 40 years for his leavened dough cakes, such as the Christmas panettone. His fine meringues stuffed with sweetened whipped cream are a must.

The citadels of the plain

A detour south of Bassano and Marostica will take you to the Venetian plain – less charming, perhaps, but boasting two towns that have preserved much more than mere vestiges.

Founded in the 12th and 13th centuries, as fortified towns of Treviso and Padua, Castelfranco Veneto and Cittadella are about nine miles apart. Their original military vocation (which was, however, hardly exploited) bequeathed them impressive and perfectly preserved ramparts.

Cittadella is a perfect example of 13th century military architecture. It is entirely surrounded by a 0.9 mile-long wall and a wide water-filled moat.

It is possible to walk on the ramparts and go round them on foot. In the old town, designed according to a cross plan, a visit to the Teatro Sociale, a beautiful, classic-style 19^th-century auditorium, is a must.

To the east, the town of Castelfranco Veneto has just a small town centre surrounded by square fortifications. But the original town harbours several prestigious works of art. First of all the Madonna kept in the Duomo (the cathedral), painted by Giorgione in 1504.

This great Renaissance artist gave his name to an old palace near the Duomo, an amazing construction – destined for various uses through the centuries – which houses a whole series of frescoes inspired by the “liberal and mechanical arts”.

Also to be admired is the Teatro Accademico (University Theatre, 18th century), long reserved for philosophical conversations and witness of the remarkable cultural past of this region and small provincial town.

Recommended establishments in Cittadella and Castelfranco

Wine buffs can take refuge at the Enoteca Il Vino in Cittadella, where they will find a selection of good Italian wines.

The Cantina Mediterraneo, on the majestic round square in Badoere, near Castelfranco, is an excellent restaurant, highly recommended for fans of local cuisine. Here you can enjoy lingua salmistrata (spicy ox tongue) and sopa caoda, an extraordinary soup made with bread and pigeons, served in bouillon. A real Venetian dish that is almost impossible to find.

Practical information

Museo Civico di Bassano

Piazza Garibaldi, 34

36061 Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza)
Tel: +39 0424 522235 / 523336 / 519450

info@museobassano.it

Teatro Sociale di Cittadella

Tel: +39 049 9413411
www.comune.cittadella.pd.it

Teatro Accademico di Castelfranco Veneto

Open to visit from Monday to Friday, by appointment on public holidays.

Tel: +39 0423 494500

Casa di Giorgione

Castelfranco Veneto