Maritime Greenwich – A World Heritage Site

Donna Dailey - 2008-06-09

Greenwich can be easily reached by mainline rail or the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) from central London. Some prefer the more novel approach via the foot tunnel beneath the Thames, which was built in 1902 to enable dock workers to reach the Isle of Dogs. Perhaps the best way is to arrive as Londoners have done since the 14th century – by riverboat.

 

Today's boats land at Greenwich Pier, where stylish new cafes and restaurants will open next spring. Alongside is the dry dock for the Cutty Sark, the last of the great tea clippers and the fastest sailing ship of her time during the 1880s. Ravaged by fire in 2007, she is currently being restored.

 

 

 

Maritime Greenwich became royal land in the 1400s, when Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, enclosed what is now Greenwich Park as a hunting ground. A small deer enclosure in the park's south-east corner harks back to those early roots. Atop the hill, Humphrey built a small castle where the Royal Observatory now stands.

 

Although there is no trace along the river today of the grand palace where Henry VIII was born in 1491, it was a favourite royal residence during Tudor times. Henry's daughters, the future queens Mary and Elizabeth, were also born here. Henry established his armoury here, along with two large military dockyards at nearby Deptford and Woolwich, moves that saw Greenwich become the nation's naval power base.

 

 

 

Construction of the Royal Hospital for Seamen began in 1696. Designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, the complex of four "courts" with elegant columns, domes and classical elements is an architectural masterpiece that forms one of London's most stunning riverside views.

 

At its peak the hospital housed 3,000 pensioners. In 1873 it became the Royal Naval College, serving as an educational institution for officers for the next 125 years. Since 1998 the buildings have housed the University of Greenwich and Trinity College of Music.

 

Today, visitors are free to stroll through the grounds and enjoy its highlights. The neo-classical Chapel of St Peter and St Paul has a marvellous ceiling of hand-moulded plasterwork and a monumental altarpiece depicting St Paul's shipwreck on Malta, painted by Benjamin West. Visitors wishing to enjoy the chapel's excellent acoustics can visit on Tuesdays for the 1pm lunchtime recitals, or on Friday afternoons when, between 3pm and 5pm, voice students perform for tutorials. There is also an 11am service each Sunday.

 

Three hundred years ago in 1708, James Thornhill began work on the Painted Hall, a magnificent work of Baroque allegorical art that took him 19 years to complete. With its enormous oval ceiling, it has been called England's Sistine Chapel. Following his death at the Battle of Trafalgar, Admiral Lord Nelson lay in state here for three days in January 1806.

 

Guided tours from the Old Royal Naval College visitor centre provide an opportunity to view both the Jacobean vaulted undercroft of the Great Hall and the Victorian skittle alley. From 21 June through 28 September 2008, an Observation Wheel will be installed in the grounds, affording spectacular views of London and Maritime Greenwich.

 

 

 

The beauty and symmetry of Greenwich's riverfront is enhanced by the Queen's House, set back between the central courtyards of the Old Royal Naval College.

 

Designed by Inigo Jones in 1616 for Queen Anne of Denmark, it was England's first classical Renaissance building. Highlights of this elegant Palladian villa include the Tulip Stairs, an unsupported spiral staircase with a tulip motif on its wrought-iron balustrade, and the marble floor of the Great Hall. It now houses changing art exhibitions.

 

 

 

Behind the museum, paths lead into the green expanse of Greenwich Park. Crowning the steep central hill is the Royal Observatory. From here there are stunning views across the Thames to the modern London of Canary Wharf and the O2 arena (formerly known as the Millennium Dome). The famous Meridian Line runs through the courtyard, where you can stand astride it with one foot in the Eastern and the other in the Western hemispheres.

 

The red Time Ball atop Flamsteed House drops every day at 1pm, the signal by which Thames ships have set their chronometers since 1833. This is the original Royal Observatory building, where John Flamsteed was appointed the first Astronomer Royal by King Charles II in 1675. You can see the apartments where he lived and the Octagon Room where he charted the stars through his telescope every night for 40 years. Downstairs, the Time Galleries display John Harrison's early devices for measuring longitude at sea. You can also see a panorama of Greenwich through the Camera Obscura.

 

The Weller Astronomy Galleries have a variety of hands-on exhibits which explore the mysteries of space. Purchase a timed ticket to see one of the shows in the Peter Harrison Planetarium.

 

 

 

A short walk away in the historic town centre, the Fan Museum holds another fine speciality collection dedicated to the ancient art and craft of this delicate fashion accessory. Beautiful specimens are displayed in several creative changing exhibitions throughout the year.

 

 

 

The Novotel Greenwich, with its stylish contemporary guest rooms and suites, is a good place to stay. It's next to the rail station and a five-minute walk to the riverfront and historic town centre. 173-185 Greenwich High Road, SE10, tel: 020 8312 6800, www.novotel.com

 

The Tourist Information Centre and Visitor Centre, opposite the Cutty Sark, is open daily 10am-5pm. There are guided walks daily at 12.15 and 2.15 pm, tickets £5. Tel: 0870 608 2000, www.greenwichwhs.org.uk