Dijon and its irresistible urban charm

Georges Rouzeau - 2009-04-13

 

 

If a town is put under a microscope and judged by its great men, then Dijon is, without doubt, a great town!

For example, take Philip the Bold, the first Duke of Burgundy. In the 14^th century this skilful politician created a veritable Burgundian state which rivalled the Kingdom of France in terms of its power.

This art lover and lavish sponsor commissioned the rebuilding of Dijon's palace, inviting painters and sculptors from his estate that extended as far as Flanders. His dignified descendant, Philip the Good, also a great art lover, funded the brush strokes of Jan Van Eyck, Rogier Van Weyden and Hans Memling.

 

Dijon was also the home town of Bossuet (one of the French language's greatest prose-writers),  the composer Rameau, President des Brosses (author of the delightful 'Letters from Italy'), the licentious novelist Andréa de Nerciat and the poet and playwright Alexis Piron (famous for his sharp repartee, particularly with Voltaire and les Beaunois.) Nor should we forget the poet Aloysius Bertrand, who wrote the 'Gaspard of the Night' collection (Baudelaire considered him to be the father of prose poetry, inspiring his own work of 'Paris Spleen.') If you are in the mood to pay homage to Bertrand, his bust can be found in the jardin de l'Arquebuse. Dijon is also the birthplace of Adolphe Joanne, the inventor of travel guides (namely 'The Blue Guide'.) He also founded 'Illustration' journal and the French Alpine Club, and was born at 85 rue de la Liberté.

 

Nowadays, strolling the streets of Dijon, you might come across the imposing figure of  Yan Pei-Ming, a Chinese painter who graduated from Dijon's École des Beaux-Arts in 1986 and who has become known for his monochrome portraits of Mao. A series of five immense canvasses entitled 'The Funeral of Mona Lisa' is on display at the Louvre until 18^th May 2009.

 

In short Dijon is a town where inspiration flourishes, through its great spirituality (attested by the number of its churches) and through its literature and art. So what is left of all this nowadays? The answer is an inextinguishable urban charm. Dijon is a joy for lovers of architecture with its abundance of churches, superb private mansions and medieval timber-framed houses. You will also delight in finding antique shops, secondhand booksellers, framing boutiques, graphic arts workshops, and, to top it all, several fine restaurants.

 

 

Take yourself to the centre of the Place de la Libération, formerly the Place Royale, where a statue of Louis XIV, that was destroyed in the revolution, used to stand. This semi circle of arcades, filled with boutiques and crowned with a stone balustrade, has a very rigorous classicism. Here you can certainly recognise the work of the Versailles architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart.  The decidedly ubiquitous Jean-Michel Wilmotte restored the square, and notably freed it of its cars.

 

So, you are now facing the Palace of the Dukes and Estates of Burgundy which contains the town hall and the Fine Arts Museum with its attractive Burgundian stone that is lit up by the sun. The museum will be a treasured moment of your stay in Dijon, even though extensive renovation work is currently underway and several rooms are temporarily closed.

 

 

The museum, which is one of the most interesting in France, has the fortune of an abundance of masterpieces to be viewed at your heart's desire. For an express tour, head directly to the Guard-Room which houses the tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless with his wife Margaret of Bavaria, both of which are constructed to a similar design: recumbent statues lying on black marble tombstones held up by small alabaster arches under which there is a group of 'weeping mourners' in a funeral cortège. A very attractive way to deal with death!

 

 

 

The old 'gens de robe' (legal professionals') quarter covers the area behind La Place de la Libération with Law being just as much a speciality of Dijon as its mustard. The old Law Court, (now the Court of Appeal) with its superb Renaissance facade and chiselled door, is in need of a little restoration.

 

In the surrounding area the private mansions give one an idea of Dijon's status in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The mansions hôtel Legouz de Gerland, hôtel Fyot-de-Mimeure and even hôtel de Bretagne display their pilasters, pediments and overhanging turrets and their attractive semicircular courtyards. But unfortunately the stables and horses have now given way to cars and co-owned boudoirs.

 

You can also visit the musée Magnin in the same quarter. This 17^th century mansion is a hidden gem, a welcoming and intimate exhibition house for enthusiasts; a far cry from the sterile atmospheres found in modern museums. Maurice Magnin and his sister have brought together a collection of little known artists, minor Italian and Flemish masters, but also French painters from the end of the 16^th century to 19^th century amongst a context of 18^th c. or Napoleonic Empire period furniture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Notre-Dame church is a nice example of Gothic architecture in Burgundy and it occupies a central location in the middle of a very pretty quarter favoured by antique dealers. Its special attraction is its 'wish fulfilling owl' sculpted on a buttress of one of the chapels. To have your wish granted you have to stroke it with your left hand and walk away in the right direction without passing the sculpted dragon, situated further along, which holds the frightful power of being able to deny your wish!

Just as famous is the timber-framed house located at number 10 which, according to our tour-guide, has retained all of its contents since the Middle Ages. You are sure to notice the roofing of varnished tiles on hôtel de Vogüé one of Dijon's principal parliamentary homes. Go past the porch and turn around in order to admire its Renaissance decoration.

 

 

 

11/11ter, rue des Forges

21000 Dijon

Tel. : +33 (0)892 700 558

Fax : +33 (0)380 30 90 02

 

 

 

 

10, rue Bannelier

21000 Dijon

Tel.: +33 (0)3 80 49 94 15

This popular establishment with 1900's bistro décor is full to the brim at lunchtimes with its 17 €   set lunch menu consisting of: ham sprinkled with chopped parsley, Burgundy escargots, traditional  pâté in a pastry crust and rabbit stew. Professional, rapid service.

 

12, rue Odebert

21000 Dijon

Tel. : +33 (0)3 80 50 09 26

David Zuddas, a starred chef for his 'auberge de la Charme', has just opened a new address which has really hit the mark. Set in modern décor (light parquet floor, melamine tables, white plastic chairs) he produces double-quick, set lunch menus which are great value for money: velouté of shellfish and slice of bread with black pudding on fresh goats cheese, Bourguignon style confit of ox cheekand a delicious chocolate tart.

Set menus at 15/20/35€  - A la Carte: 35/45€

 

 

18, rue Sainte-Anne

21000 Dijon

This hotel is very well located and has modern and comfortable rooms with all purpose decoration. Ask for a room overlooking the courtyard which has pleasant views. Its only weakness is a pernickity reception. The hotel also has an up and coming restaurant -  les Œnophiles.